While comfortably sitting down for a coffee at the pool side of the Mena House, the idea burst upon me. My editor wanted me to write about something relating to international affairs, history or culture from an Indian angle for a high class glossy magazine aimed at American-Indians and I was racking my brains on what to write about? It was like the muse suddenly descended upon me and I got my Eureka moment. I will write about Indians in Cairo. Now that is globalization for you. An Indian origin British citizen, living in London, working then for a Dutch bank, writing about Egypt (Cairo) for an American magazine, while staying in an old British colonial era hotel, which is now managed by an Indian firm, while being served Turkish coffee by an Egyptian waiter. Funny or what? These are my impressions, disjointed, ranging widely across time and space. But let us start at the beginning.
Having to come to Cairo on business, I asked my assistant to book me one of those modern hotels which are in the middle of Cairo’s city centre. One of my colleagues overheard her speaking to me and he suggested another hotel, Mena House. I didn’t pay any attention and absent-mindedly agreed; not realizing that it was about 20 kilometres outside the city, right next door to the pyramids. I did grumble when I found out while suffering through heavy Cairo traffic to get there, but as it turns out, it was the right choice after all. Mena House has its antecedents in old British colonial history when an old hunting lodge of the then Khedive was converted into a hotel by a British couple. Many moons later, many international conferences (World War I, World War II, the Israeli-Arab conflict), many celebrities (Nick Faldo, Jimmy Carter, Julio Iglesias, Barbara Bush, Pierre Balmain, Grateful Dead band members, Reza Pahlavi, Shah of Iran, Anwar Sadat, Charlie Chaplain, Montgomery of Alamein, Richard Nixon and other assorted presidents kings, queens, emperors and princes) later, it was nationalized by the Egyptian Government in 1953. In 1971, it was handed over to the Oberoi Hotel group of India to be its managing agent, and if you excuse the pun, the rest is history.
I love the Oberoi Hotels, having stayed at them in Delhi, Calcutta, Bangalore and Mumbai. They have this wonderfully evocative old charm and perfect service. The rooms are big enough for a large man like me to walk about without feeling like an elephant in a porcelain shop, the bathrooms are large, well lit and decorated nicely. Plus, they usually are in old properties, with high ceilings, arched doorways and long well decorated corridors. They have excellent landscaped gardens, and you don’t feel like a sardine. So they come very highly recommended. No, they aren’t your cheap and cheerful hotels, but if you can afford it, you get a sense that you are finally home. Here’s a related quote, “its amazing how people want hotel service at home and home feelings at hotels”, while I dare not say anything about the former, but Oberoi Hotels, very uniquely, manage to carry that off. It is indeed a pleasure to walk inside any one of their wonderful hotels. Having had experience of hotels in more than fifty countries around the world, give me one of these any time. So it was with pleasure that I walked in and I have to admit that I was not disappointed at all. So started my little journey.
Sitting in the breakfast room the next day, I could see the Great Pyramid through the bead curtains. It is a short ten minute walk away. The Great Pyramid is something which can be read about, but it has to be experienced to feel the immensity of this structure. Standing next to it makes you feel tiny and insignificant but at the same time, feel wonder and awe at how the ancient Egyptians created this edifice. I wouldn’t bore you with the statistics and check out the national geographic site for more details. There are three big pyramids, countless smaller ones, and then there is the Sphinx. If you can manage to keep away the innumerable offers for horses, camels and donkey rides, kitsch tourist statues and avoid stepping into one of the animal offerings, you have a wonderful time.
One has to consciously remember that these are tombs; they are monuments to the Pharaoh’s desire to attain immortality.
I met a traveler from an antique land
Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert...Near them, on the sand,
Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown,
And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
The hand that mocked them, and the heart that fed;
And on the pedestal these words appear:
'My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!'
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away.
— Percy Bysshe Shelley, 1817
These are thousands of years old, and took decades and armies of workers to put together. And for a person born as an Indian, the feeling is faintly comforting. Two cultures whose origins are steeped in ancient times, two cultures which rose next to rivers, two cultures which are separated by thousands of miles, but both have mysteries galore, countless gods and wonderful monuments. While the ancient Egyptian culture has died away unlike in India where it still lives on, the signs of Ancient Egypt are all around us: on the Egyptian currency notes, in the large murals which you see lining the road from the airport, the driver of tourism – the major economic sector in the country, the hordes of tourists who are busy clicking away with their digital cameras, etc. etc.
So here I was, the quintessential globalised Indian, sitting in an Indian managed hotel, sipping Karkade, a dark burgundy drink made out of hibiscus flowers (wonderful stuff, very nourishing and soothing not to forget its calming effect), speaking with the Executive Housekeeper, Ms. Veneeta Rikhy, a very polished lady, who came over to Cairo in 2003, after long years of experience in Oberoi Hotels in India. She said that after the commercialized, hustle bustle, rush-rush of working in Mumbai, the Mena House in Cairo came as a soothing palliative. Although she had some reservations at the start, about moving away from India to a third world country, she found that life in Egypt is as slow, deep and steady as the Nile. The Egyptians were very warm, patient and laid-back and very welcoming to her and her family. While she only knows a few words in Arabic, just about enough to get along, her daughter speaks Arabic fluently. She and her family have settled down and integrated well, with an extensive social network of friends.
She mentioned that quite a lot of Indians from India, Europe and America have now started coming to Egypt. They do so primarily for two reasons, first is if they love history (and Indians do love history), and second is if they love sea sports and diving. While I have never been to the Egyptian part of the Red Sea, I have dived in the Saudi part of it, and I can easily say that the Red Sea is the most beautiful of them all, even better than the Great Barrier Reef. The main reason I loved the Red Sea is that it has corals, a living breathing wall of colour, unlike other places like the West Indies, Mauritius, Hawaii or Australia. But I digress; obviously you cannot dive in Cairo. Well, you can dive into the lovely Mena House Swimming pool, but you won’t find corals or groupers gaping at you.
The swimming pool is very nice, one of the largest Hotel pools in the country, surrounded by very well kept grounds and lawns and with very good service too. I would highly recommend taking a good book and ordering either Karkade or their lovely ice cold mint tea. It just hits the spot. The only problem was that the fertilizer they use on that lovely lawn is organic and when they watered the lawns and the wind was right (or wrong), you did get a bad whiff. But now I am quibbling. A lovely way to spend a lazy afternoon, with the Great Pyramid as a backdrop, the turquoise water of the swimming pool, the hum of insects.
I asked Veneeta about other Indians working in the hotel and there are a few senior personnel, but one gentleman caught my attention, Mr. Rais Ahmed, the head Chef, who has been here ruling over his domain every since the Oberoi took over the Mena House. A stripling of 23 years of age back then, he has been producing divine Indian meals ever since. The Moghul Restaurant is considered to be the best Indian restaurant in the Middle East, and I have to admit that his food is par excellence. Even though I have been spoilt by my recent trips back home, his Mughlai food is excellent. Have a taste of his Murgh Makhani, Shahjani and if you are particularly adventurous, try his Murgh Vindaloo (woof, blew my head off, I tell you). The desserts are divine as well, and his Kulfi is also excellent, the piquant taste of the spices is just the perfect end to a magical night. To get to eat such wonderful food west of Mumbai, in such a great location was perfect.
Rais speaks Hindi, Arabic, English and Bengali fluently, and it was with pleasure I spoke to him in Hindi and Bengali. We talked about spices, the right heat of the tandoor, the fact that he has trained almost 30 other Egyptians into very well qualified chefs who are in great demand in the other hotels, restaurants and cruise ships of Egypt and the Middle East. Taking a peek at the kitchen, it was large, very well equipped, lots of space and surprise surprise, smiling under chefs and staff. A very genial and polite man, Mr. Rais, who personally understands his guests coming for meals, finds out their nationality and then freshly cooks to suit their respective palates. For example, he said that Americans and the British like their food very hot and spicy, while the Japanese prefer it delicately spiced. I asked him about what Indian visitors thought about his food, and he hummed and hawed. But I persisted and with a very enduring shy modesty, he said in a strangled tone, they said that it’s better than in India!!!! And this Indian agrees! A man truly in love with his job and happiest when his clients are replete with excellent food. For a man to do this for over 36 years, day in - day out, is a monument which is comparable to the Great Pyramid. It was indeed a pleasure to meet him.
While bumbling around in the lobby, which, according to my feelings, is a tad bit overdone with gold paint (I suppose it is made to resemble ancient Egyptian palaces), I bumped into Mohamed Eiweida, the Lobby Manager, who is Egyptian. He took me around and showed me many photographs of the celebrities, part hidden in an alcove behind an imposing statue of Ismail Pasha, the Khedive (Viceroy) of Egypt. Guess what? Brooke Shields also stayed here! Interesting enough, Mohamed studied hotel management in India. Go figure, but an Oberoi Graduate can be seen from afar. A very smart, professional and genial man, full of tidbits of fascinating factoids.
It was a short visit, but I can just see myself coming back here again with my kids. My son would enjoy the history, while my little munchkin would most certainly prefer to frolic in the pool. The wonder of this place is that it appeals and can cater for all kinds of tourists, whether they are interested in history, or are just wanting a calm peaceful family holiday away from the bustle of daily life or just vegging out next to the pool, the Mena House has it all. The place just cocoons you with its ambience, its history, the play of lights and shadows borne out of the intricately carved chandeliers, the excellent food and above all, the majestic backdrop of the Pyramids. As the local saying goes, anybody who has drunk the water of the Nile will return, and I most certainly WILL.
Further information
It was a business trip and i didn't remember to take my camera. So had to rely on one of those dinky disposable ones.
The breakfast room.
Lovely view, no? to see the great pyramid while having your breakfast?
This part of the garden was a bit manky, but who cares…
Next to the pool having dinner
The pool was lovely. The water was a bit cold, but still lovely. And then they had a wedding in the main hotel ballroom. I heard a haunting local wedding song with a very lilting rhythm. I have been trying to find that song on YouTube for many moons but without knowing the lyrics, its very difficult. I have asked couple of friends, so if I find out, will post it.
I had many glasses of karkade, a hibiscus flower drink, in this lovely place, very nice comfortable chairs., but the gold paint was a bit too much.
The main restaurant
Quite a nice restaurant. Can you imagine seeing a painting of Krishna in Egypt in a public restaurant? With very traditional Mughal oriented architecture and arches and stuff? Weird or what? But the food was great.
Out and About. Had a few hours before catching the flight so decided to go check out the mouldy old buildings.
Old Scarface himself.
Then went over to see Saqqara, the step pyramid

Here is the painting which got the GBLT folks quite excited, apparently this showed 2 boys kissing. The chap who was there got very excited as well and said, it was certainly not 2 gay men kissing but 2 brothers, twins in fact. This was inside one of the tombs near Saqqara.
Here’s the Bent Pyramid. Looks a bit sad, no?
Yours truly totally like a male model, no? I know, I know, modelling trucks.
I went down the bent Pyramid. I was severely bent out of shape, if you ask me.
Full Slide show here.
















